Crofton Country Club Greens

"What Does Winter Weather Do For Turf On The Golf Course?"

2011-02-04T07:02:00.000-08:00

There are positive and negative effects of winter weather to turf on the golf course. These effects are dependent on the type of precipitation, temperature, and how long the snow or ice cover exists.

The best precipitation for turf is a powdery snow. A thick blanket of snow provides an insulating blanket that protects the turf. When exposed turf thaws in winter, it will began to break dormancy and root systems will start to absorb moisture. The cell walls of the plants become thinner and are more susceptible to damage from a significant drop in temperature. If this occurs with the temperatures, these swollen cells can be damaged and turf loss will occur. A thick blanket of snow will also protect turf from winter desiccation, which is the drying up of turf when exposed to winter winds. The wind removes moisture from the turf and leaves it unable to replenish itself because the water it needs is frozen in the soil.

As for a cover of ice on turf, especially on greens, is not what we want to see happen. When a layer of ice forms on the surface of the green it can cause problems if this layer is there for a week or so. Toxic levels of carbon dioxide can become built up under the ice and not allowed to escape. The Carbon Dioxide is the result of the turf being alive under the ice, and the cells of the plant are using food that has been stored in an effort to survive. The conversion of the food to energy releases the Carbon Dioxide which is a toxin to the turf, when the gas cannot escape the ice layer for an extended period of time. Poa Annua also known as annual bluegrass is more susceptible to damage than the Bentgrass, but unfortunately here at Crofton we have a large population of annual bluegrass.

So if u are wishing for winter weather for the months of December, January, and February, I hope all of u wish for thick blankets of powdery snow!

Increasing Airflow and Aesthetics

2011-01-26T07:25:00.000-08:00

The week of January 17Th through January 22Nd was a busy time for the maintenance department. The task of limbing trees in order to raise the canopy so that air flow can be increased to turf in the fairways was the goal. We targeted the holes with the thickest tree lines by using a 45' lift to remove lower limbs on mature Oak, Beech, and Poplar trees. The limbs that were removed, were readily put through a 12" chipper for easy cleanup. The amount of work that was completed in such a short time, could have not happened without the help of Todd Bonehman and his crew from Tebco.

The right side of #2 has a much higher canopy now, which will definitely aid in maintaining better turf conditions in areas of the fairway that have struggled during summer stress in the past. To the golfer, he or she will recognize it may be easier to sneak a shot through the trees to accomodate the dogleg.

This picture shows the view from the back tee on #7. Notice that the opening to the fairway is much wider, the entire fairway bunker on the left can be seen from the tee now. The limbing of the trees on the left corner of the creek will allow us to use the left side of the middle tee box, while eliminating the "must hit" right to left shot.

This picture shows the view from the tee on #8. All trees on the right side from behind 7 green to the dogleg corner at the fairway of #8 had all lower branches removed.

The right side of #11 had the most dramatic change in scenery of any hole on the course. The large trees had all lower branches removed, and all underbrush was removed from the tree line to the creek a long the right side. There is easily 10 to 15 yards of rough area in play now, the hazard line along the right side was drastically pushed back. The turf in the fairway and the errant shots on this hole, will reap the benefits from a lot of hard work during cold January weather.

Organic (Natural) v/s Chemical (Inorganic)

2011-01-14T07:56:00.000-08:00

During the 2011 season at Crofton we are going to be using a large amount of Organic Fertilizers on the turf for fertility. In years past we have used more Chemical than Organic Fertilizers. The debate and thoughts on which one provides the best results is ongoing. However, we have decided that Organic fertlizer will give us the upper hand for the best results at Crofton due to the micro climates and different soils that exist on the golf course. The following paragraphs give a summary and run down of both types of fertilizer, and why we are going with the change for the upcoming season.

Man made Chemical fertilizers always have a high total of NPK (Nitrogen, Phosphorous, Potassium) from 20% to 60% per bag. The total NPK for Organic fertilizer blends will always be low, 14% is about as high as it gets per bag. The balance of the ingredients in a bag of Chemical fertilizer aside from the NPK are usually made up of inert filler or a chemical that isn't needed. In a bag of Organic fertilizer the NPK are all necessary soil nutrients. Organic means the nutrients came from an animal-plant blend which means every ingredient is important to life, everything in the bag is needed and in correct proportions.

There is very little if any Carbon in a bag of Chemical fertilizer, but a plant or animal is abundant with the element Carbon, in the form of energy as carbohydrates. For the turf to be properly fed with any fertilizer, the microbial life in the soil has to process the fertilizer into a substance that can be absorbed by the turf in correct amounts. In order for the microbes to perform this process they must have energy. Microbes do not have the presence of sunlight and do not have chlorophyll, so the microbes must get their energy from organic material in the soil. In a bag of Organic fertilizer the carbon energy the soil microbes need is already present in correct amounts to perform the task of breaking down the nutrients for the turf.

Organic fertilizers are slower acting than a Chemical fertilizer in producing visual results due to a lower NPK analysis, but Organic fertilizers can be used in higher amounts without the risk of burning the turf, as well as lasting longer in the soil. Another benefit of Organic compared to Chemical fertilizers, is that with a Chemical fertilizer they can quickly dissolve in the sandy soils here at Crofton. This can cause burn to the roots of the plants, and quickly leach into soil depths where the roots cannot uptake the nutrients. Chemical fertilizers also have the potential to pollute the environment due to dissolving fast and being moved out of the soil. The only negative is the odor that might be present for a couple of days. This odor is not that of manure or any type of waste, but that of bone, fish, and feather meals of animals. The inconvenience of the odor for a couple of days will by far be worth it for the results this fertilizer will produce for the turf at Crofton.

Organic Fertilizers contain energy and many other things that continually build soil fertility, crumb structure, increased water holding capacity, food for beneficial soil life, and contribute to the hundreds of other yet-unknown things that cause a turf to be healthy and vigorous. With all of these benefits there for the taking is why we have decided that Organic fertilizers will be our approach with fertility for the turf of the golf course in 2011. With all these benefits we are giving the turf more weapons early to defend against the stress that was endured in the summer of 2010, which will help in producing optimal playing conditions for the entire golfing season.

* malcolmbeck.com

Tree Limbs and Debris Clean Up

2011-01-11T06:52:00.000-08:00

Starting the week of January 10th, 2011 a 12 inch chipper is on site to start cleaning up tree limbs and debris from the underbrushing operations that took place through the month of December. We are chipping into our utility vehicle and dumping the mulch into areas of the golf course where it can be used for fill and/or aesthetic purposes.

The chipper will be on site for the next two weeks. During this time we will be concentrating on holes 2, 5, 6, 7, 9, 10, 11, 14, 15, 16, 17, and 18. We have made great progress in cleaning some areas on these holes, to increase sunlight and air flow to the turf. While doing this clean up we have opened up some areas of the course that will now be playable for the golfer who hits a few stray shots during their round.

The Hidden Pest

2011-01-10T05:38:00.000-08:00

The biggest pest we deal with at Crofton is ironically the smallest in size. This insect only shows its self a few times a year, but is always somewhere near where close cut, high maintained turf is located. This pest is a turf eating insect known as the Annual Bluegrass Weevil (ABW). The ABW is a beetle in the weevil family, and feeds on short cut Poa Annua (Annual Bluegrass) and Creeping Bentgrass (Agrostis Stolonifera). These two turfs are grown on greens and fairways here at Crofton.

The ABW has a complete life cycle and can produce one to three generations per year. The insects are small in size during the adult stage, differing in color from black to gray. They average 1/8 of an inch long and have a characteristic weevil snout. During the stage when the adult emerges from the pupal stage they appear reddish in color, but change to a charcoal gray color as their shell hardens. The eggs of the ABW are small and oblong, and can be found in the leaf sheaths of turfgrass plants.

When the larvae emerge from the eggs that have been laid in the leaf sheath, they are legless with a white body and brown head. The pupae stage of the ABW look a lot like an adult, but are smaller in size and have a reddish brown color that darkens over time. The adult and pupae stage of the ABW do not often cause noticeable damage to turfgrasses. Most damage to the turf by the ABW is often noticed in the perimeter of greens and fairways that support a high population of Annual Bluegrass. The majority of the damage is caused by this insect during its larvae stage, and can go unnoticed for sometime. The damage occurs when the female adult chews into the outer sheaths of the grass blade and lays her eggs between the sheaths. This process will weaken the plant and discolor, but not kill it instantly. Therefore the damage cannot be seen as it happens most of the time. The larvae that hatch from the eggs feed on stems and then move into the crown tissue of the plant. When crown feeding occurs the plants can easily be pulled from the soil, and a hollowed grass stem is a sure sign that ABW's are present. The more eggs, the more larvae, the more damage to the turf. The turf will appear purple before it turns brown and dies out. The significant damage that the larvae cause becomes obvious in late May or early June.

During the early fall season the larvae which have became adults at this time, make their way from the close cut turf of greens and fairways to wooded areas. There they over-winter in litter under trees and clippings deposited there or in rough areas. In early April these adults make their way back to the greens and fairways to begin feeding, this however causes little damage. The laying of the eggs during this feeding that will produce the damage when the eggs hatch in a month's time. The larvae will be present feeding on turf from the first part of May until the end of June, with most damage possible during the summer.

The larvae can be detected by cutting a slice of turf two inches deep as seen in the picture above. During the 2010 season we did not detect larvae in many areas, and some areas did not have any at all. However, we must use control methods every year as if we are preparing for year of the worst infestation. For the 2011 season we have adapted transitioning our collars and approaches from Creeping Bentgrass to Perennial Ryegrass. Perennial Ryegrass has been proven to be a resistant variety of turf that ABW's will not feed on, so this measure will keep the greens and surrounding areas protected from damage. As for these areas and the fairways chemical applications will be applied two to three times during the year when needed. This is just one of many things we will be doing to provide the best turf conditions for playability during the 2011 season.

* Biology and Management of ABW in Turfgrass. - Steven McDonald M.S. & Peter Dernoeden Ph.D.

"Wetting Agents On Tap For 2011"

2011-01-07T06:00:00.000-08:00

A Wetting Agent program has been put in place for the 2011 season. The Wetting Agents will be applied to greens and fairways once a month beginning in April and ending in September. This program will allow us to manage our water output while helping improve the capabilities of the soil to use water efficiently for the turf.

The golf course at Crofton is built mostly upon sandy soils. The particles of sand in a sandy soil have a reputation of developing water repellancy due to a wax like substance that coats each particle. This waxy substance has fungi properties which cause the soil in localized spots to become hydrophobic, or the inability of water to flow through the soil into the root zone allowing the turf plants to use the water efficiently. The turf in these spots wilts and thins out during stress periods of heat and drought due to lack of water for the roots to absorb.

Hydrophobic soils are difficult to wet because they repel water. The infiltration of water into these soils can often be improved by applying a non ionic surfactant, more commonly known as a Wetting Agent. Wetting Agents are detergent-like substances that are applied in a spray solution to reduce surface tension of water, allowing it to penetrate and wet the soil more easily.

The explanation for hydrophobic soils developing is explained as there are three forces that affect the movement of water into the soil. The first force is Gravity, or the constant force that pulls water downward. The second force is Cohesion, or the attraction of water molecules for each other that holds a droplet of water together. Cohesion creates a water droplet's surface tension. The third and final force is Adhesion, the attraction of water molecules to other substances. Adhesion is what causes water to adhere to soil particles. When the Adhesive forces between water molecules and an object are weaker than the Cohesive forces between water molecules, the soil surface repels water and is said to be a hydrophobic soil.

An area of turf that has hydrophobic soil is also known as Localized Dry Spot (LDS). These spots can easily be identified during the summer months due to turf wilting, changing in color, or dying due to insufficient moisture. Non ionic surfactants when applied by spraying on these areas reduce the surface tension of water, allowing the water molecules to spread out and penetrate the surface of the soil. This allows for consistent moisture levels throughout a putting green or fairway, providing a healthy turf covering the entire area for maximum playing conditions.

Applying Wetting Agents on a monthly basis during the 2011 season will help us be more successful at keeping moisture levels consistent throughout the course. A uniform moisture pattern in the root zones of the soil will allow for fewer spots of thinning turf during the summer stress periods. LDS has been a problem in the recent past at Crofton, and with our plan of attack in place for 2011, our goal is to eliminate as many of these spots as possible to provide a better conditioned course.

* "Soil Facts- Using Wetting Agents" www.soil.ncsu.edu

Why is the Course Closed on a 50 Degree Day?

2011-01-05T06:22:00.000-08:00

The alternate freezing and thawing, along with intermittent wetting and drying of the soil on a bent grass putting green during the winter months is detrimental in many ways. These conditions produce a soil of a crumb structure, when this happens contraction and expansion take place. The resulting pressure separates the soil particles and fills the top layer of the surface with numerous pore spaces.

The paragraph above states an agronomic explanation which probably doesn't make a lot of sense to the golfer or someone who is not a golf course superintendent. So the question to be answered here is this. How does winter play affect the course conditions, so that ideal conditions may not be achieved when the spring season arrives?

The answer to this question in simple terms is this. The foot traffic of players over a small area such as a putting green develops surface compaction when the top layer is not frozen solid like the remainder of the soil is. A compacted surface layer of soil prevents the easy flow of food, water, and air into the lower soil regions where roots normally grow. When the growing season arrives in spring, the roots of the plants will not grow in soils where the natural channels and voids that have been destroyed by the compressing and crushing action of foot traffic on the thawed top layer of soil. Where there is no air there are no plant roots and thus there can be no turf.

The obvious reasons that most people understand are that ball marks on greens at this time make terrible scars and provide bumpy putting conditions as well as the indention from footprints. The underlying reasons of what was discussed above is that compaction and good golf turf just don't go together. However, let it be known that if the entire soil profile including the top layer is completely frozen no damage can occur, and in these conditions the course will be open for the brave souls who want to take on the cold temperatures while playing.

So when the course is temporarily closed during the winter it is done with the future in mind. If the course is not closed during the unfavorable conditions, the greens will be injured to the point where it will be impossible to provide good playing conditions for the remainder of the playing season. So why should the wishes of a few golfers wanting to play during the cold winter months interfere with the conditions for many golfers later on in the season? The answer to this question should be something to keep in mind.

"* USGA Journal and Turf Management source cited."

Breaking Down & Rebuilding "Reels"

2011-01-03T10:27:00.000-08:00

During the winter months, our mechanic is busy in the shop making sure that the equipment is ready to go for the season of 2011. The first job to be completed is a breakdown and rebuild of each cutting unit reel for the greens, tees, and fairway mowers. This is a very detailed procedure and takes plenty of time and experience to make sure all parts involved are prepared for the everyday use they will receive when the season begins.

All Rollers that are attached to the cutting unit are taken off, bearings are replaced, and regreased.

The counter weights are taken off as well, and given a fresh coat of paint. New bed knives are installed and given a new cutting edge by a grinder. The exterior of the bed knives and shields are given a fresh coat of paint also.

The cutting reel is also put on a grinder so that each blade is given a sharp edge so that all grass will be cut and not torn. The rollers, shields, counter weights, and bed knives are reassembled to produce a completed cutting unit that is ready for the 2011 season.

The process above must be completed 5 times to make up a "set" of reels for 1 fairway mower. The reels and bed knives are sharpened when needed throughout the season to maintain an excellent cut. However, the bearings in the rollers and the reels are only replaced during the winter.

Hexagon Plugging To Thin Spots on #7 green

2010-12-16T06:58:00.000-08:00

During the months of November and December, hexagon plugs were placed in the thin spots on #7 green to promote healing into the spring. These plugs were taken from the back edges of the greens and transplanted into areas where turf was needed. This will aid in speeding up the progress of "filling in" the thin areas on the greens surface.

Hex plugs were also used on greens #6, #9, and #17.

This is what the areas will look like after growing conditons allow the turf spread. We also follow up with 2 to 3 topdressing applications to smooth and level any indescrepancies on the surface of the green.

Bermuda Grass Approach on #9

2010-12-15T06:21:00.000-08:00

The Summer of 2010 was one for the history books of weather. Extreme humidity and extreme temperatures that occured from the months of late June into mid September was just too much for turf in some areas of the course. A particular area of the course that really stood out where this happened, is the fairway/approach on hole #9. This area has a history of staying wet longer than other areas, so the old drainage was removed, and new drain pipes and pattern were installed.

This area also receives full sunlight for the majority of the day. The long hours of sunlight as well as the wet conditions that existed, made it impossible for the cool season turf that was there to survive in summer stress periods.

The approach area on this hole was determined as a microclimate within the golf course, therefore we decided to install the warm season bermudagrass, which will thrive in this area. This will correct the problem of playing conditions declining during the summer months.

Winter Maintenance For Irrigation System

2010-12-13T06:02:00.000-08:00

Once again it is that time of year to make sure last years water is out of the irrigation system in preparation for the long cold months ahead. The actual pump station has been shut down and winterized since the middle of November. This operation is completed by a contractor mechanic who specializes in maintaining the pump station.
However, the irrigation lines on the golf course and the valves that control the water flow thru these lines are winterized by the maintenance staff. We do this by pressurizing the system with high pressured air supplied by a compressor. Below are a couple of pictures explaining this process.

This is the compressor that is rented for the day to perform the blowout of residual water in the irrigation lines. All valves are opened so that air can freely flow throughout the lines pressurizing the system with air instead of water, so that irrigation heads can be activated to release the water within the lines.

The compressor's air hose is connected into a hose adapting port that is used for the retrieval of water during the season, but used to pump air into the lines this time of year during the blowout operation. When the lines are fully pressurized with air, the irrigation heads are manually turned on one hole at a time until water stops appearing from each individual head on each particular hole. This operation usually takes 8 hours to perform, by starting with the practice area, and then going #1 thru #18 with the activation of irrigation heads.

This is a picture i snapped this morning on December 13th, showing the scene at the clubhouse and practice green. This is just a reminder that winter is here, but hopefully this scene will not appear as many times as it did last year!

"Winter Work"

2010-12-10T09:43:00.001-08:00

With Leave cleanup at a minimum now, and cold winter temperatures arriving early in December, our focus has turned to improving conditions for the 2011 season. Underbrushing of tree lines, limbing the lower branches on larger trees, and the removal of dead trees are on going. We have started with hole #11, because of where this operation concluded on #10 the previous winter. We will continue this for holes #12 thru #18 as mother nature and time permits. The pictures below show this work, as well as some detail cleanup we have completed with ornamental beds throughout the property.

The ornamental beds around the clubhouse area have been cleaned of leaves and debris, producing a clean appearance when arriving. The ornamental beds on the golf course are in the process of being completed as well.

All trees along the right side and behind #11 green have been limbed, producing a higher canopy so that air can move freely across the surface of the green.

We have started the underbrushing and limbing operations beginning with the right side of #11. Our goal is to improve the air movement for the turf in the fairway, as well as improve the overall aesthetics of the hole.

New Cart Path Exit Regulations

2010-05-13T14:11:00.001-07:00

Our goal is to provide an easy reference point for golfers to know to exit the fairway and improve safety by eliminating many ropes on the course. This system is more visual; however, we must rely on all golfers to follow these regulations to insure peak playability.

Ropes on the ground have been added to mark the exit point for golf carts on the fairway. Exit signs can be found on either side of the fairway too.

Please do not drive beyond, through, or around white stakes. Carts approaching the stakes should exit the fairway at that point.

Follow the rope and signs to the fairway exit point. Then drive around stake nearest the path.

Spring Improvements and Enhancements

2010-05-03T08:19:00.000-07:00

The finished look here on hole #12 shows what the new sand does for the contrast of color between turf and sand. It definitely has changed the overall appearance of the green complex.

New bunker sand has been added to greenside bunkers on the back nine. Playability will be an issue at first, but the sand will compact with time and weather.

Three newly planted trees to the left of the blue/white tee on #16 will give the tee shot from the back tee more character and separation from surrounding holes.

Trees were planted to the left of 13 tee to develop a tree line that will separate holes #13 and #16 in the years to come. The trees that separate the holes now are continuing to age, become diseased, and die. When those trees are removed in the coming years, the newly planted trees will become the new tree line.

Aerification, Top Dressing, and Fertilization

2010-03-30T06:45:00.000-07:00

Due to Mother Nature's unwillingness to cooperate, the greens aerification scheduled for Monday March 29 has been pushed back to either Wednesday or Thursday the 31st of March and 1st of April. When the conditions of the greens dry down enough this is the process of what we will be doing.

We will be using a .4 inch diameter tine to punch the holes in the greens this time around. We are relieving the thatch layer of organic matter that has built up during the fall and winter months. These holes also allow the release of harmful CO2 gases that are trapped beneath the thatch layer, and allows oxygen into the soil to promote new root growth for the spring.

Using this diameter size of hole will allow for less interruption in the putting surface. With a good combination of sun, rain, and warmer temps the surface should be back to satisfactory conditions within 10 to 14 days.

After the cleanup of cores on the green from the aerifier, we will apply a topdressing of sand to fill the holes with new growing media for the plant and roots. This application of sand also helps smooth out any discrepancies in the surface for better putting conditions after the green has healed.

We also apply calcium, phosphorous, and potassium amendments while the surface of the green is open, so that these nutrients can enter into the root zone and be used by the plant to help produce a new and healthy root system. The sand and amendments are brushed into the holes. (A picture of the brushing procedure will follow up with this post in the coming days)

Goodbye "Old Man" Winter!

2010-03-30T06:21:00.000-07:00

Spring time is upon us, it wont be long til trees and flowers on the course will be in full bloom. The slow melt of 40 plus inches during the months of February and March will play a huge role in the color of the turf u will see this spring. Natural Nitrogen levels in the soil are higer than normal due to large amounts of snow.

New Bridge Constructed On Hole #17

2010-03-12T04:15:00.000-08:00

Construction of the bridge was completed on Wednesday March 10th, with the exception of a small amount of paving to the cart path on both sides. The paving will be completed next week. The bridge is passable at this time and was opened for play on Thursday March 11th. Below are pictures of the structure:

# 17 Bridge Damaged

2010-02-02T11:12:00.001-08:00

On Friday, January 14th, the Greens Department continued the winter tree pruning to remove dead and overhaning branches from around the golf course.

While in transport from #18 to #12 tee complex, the lift broke through the deck on the bridge over the creek on #17. Fortunately, no one was hurt and there is only minimal damage to the lift itself. However, the bridge was badly damaged.

Two crane, tow trucks had to be used to free the lift from the creek.

After the lift was removed and the bridge was inspected, it was deemed too dangerous to repair the current bridge even for temporary use. Since the accident three bridge contracting companies have come out to design a new bridge to cross #17 creek. Bids were due by February 1st and we hope to start construction early in February, as long as Mother Nature doesn't have other plans.

All 18 holes have remained open except for snow cover since the accident. The Greens Department is committeed to providing our membership with a safe, new bridge well before the season starts. We ask that after playing #17 golfers carefully turn around and drive backward through #11 and #10 to access #18. We appreciate your patience.

Snow Pictures from Friday

2010-01-08T06:13:00.001-08:00

Last night, just over 1" of snow fell. It shouldn't take long to melt, but we only had 10 holes clear of snow during the week.

Instead of using the snow shovel, Mercedes was able to clear the sidewalks with a back-pack blower in no time.

Tim is blowing off the parking lot with the tractor blower. This snow is light and dry.

With the snow still hanging in the trees, the clubhouse area offered a ton of nice photos.

No one is making the turn right now.

First tee looks open!
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2010 Tree Work

2010-01-07T13:20:00.000-08:00

On Wednesday, January 6th, the Greens Department started using a 45' lift as part of our continuing tree management program. Our goal is to remove dead and hanging branches from cart path and in-play areas. The Red Oaks found on property are prone to Bacterial Leaf Scorch which affects the transfer of water within the tree. It may only affect a branch at first, but can spread through the vascular system into other areas. Removing dead branches is the best way to manage it. While we are out, we are removing some low branches that block sun and thin turf.

Jose needs two things before he gets started. First, he has a saftey harness and chaps to protect himself from falling and a misstep with the chain saw. Second, he needs a little coffee to be alert.

Mercedes is working in front of Jose to remove low suckers and overgrowth. He is in there somewhere.

The OB line on #2 was overgrown on the right side.

Once Jose has identified a dead limb, he executes a "three cut removal". An intial first cut to the bottom of the branch allows for give while he cuts it from the top away from the tree. The second cut is a regular downward cut several inches from the trunk of the tree. Since branches are so heavy and well-attached to the tree, a single cut will just rip off the bark once the branch is cut 90% of the way through. Jose's intial cut keeps that from happening. The third cut is a regular cut at the collar of the branch and trunk. This cut is simple, but is the most important to insuring a health healing process.

You can see how a section of the limb closest to the trunk is cut after the bulk of the branch is already down.

Jose is able to reach almost any branch with a 45' lift.

Some areas, such as #6, had many problems with the Baterial Leaf Scorch. Two small trees in this area had to be removed and Jose is busy limbing up any dead material to keep the bacteria from spreading.

Aeration- The process and benefits

2010-01-06T05:38:00.000-08:00

Before the playing surfaces can be groomed day-to-day for golfers, the soil the turf is grown in must support healthy turf and healing from wear and tear.
Every surface in this picture is aerated, including the green which will see atleast three treatments per year.

The green is aerated and the cores are allowed to dry for several hours. Generally, we use 1/2" tines @ 1.5" spacing. In the summer we deep tine with solid 3/8" tines which don't produce cores.

Several guys use snow shovels to scoop up all of the cores. In the past we used a mechanical core harvester; however, it created scuffs and rutts.

After the cores are scooped up, the green is blown off to remove any remaining debris.

With 5% of the turf surface now open, we take apply most of our yearly amendments. We use high calcium-lime and organic based fertilizer for the calcium content. Gypsum and polycoated potash are used for potassium.

This is high-cal lime. It offers 4 times more calcium than what you will normally find at a garden store.

#18 Green under a layer of topdressing sand. This is also allowed to dry for several hours before it is drug in using a mat made out of cocco leaves. The topdressing sand is a special size which is tested to make sure it is compatable with our native soil.

#1 Green after all of the amendments are applied, the sand is drug in, and it has been rolled to remove any imperfections.

This is an upclose look of a completed green.

This is our goal. 6" roots in mid-July will help us get through the dog days of summer.

This is the view from your golf ball. Without regualer aeration, it will be looking at humps and bumps. Plus without the air and amendments the turf itself won't be healthy enough to make it through the season.

New Construction of a Putting Green

2010-01-05T11:26:00.000-08:00

A new, USGA putting green cost over $50,000 and can take up to 6 months to be ready for golfers. However, when a green is no longer able to sustain regular play throughout an entire golf season, these new greens may be necessary. Crofton has 4 USGA greens installed from 2004 to 2006 and one modified USGA green installed in 2006. The new greens can be found on #6, #7, #13, #17, and the Chipping Green.

#13 Green held water which breeds disease and causes mower damage in 2005.

#17 Green had shade issues that didn't allow it to dry out.

Let's Get Dirty!

Large bulldozers are needed to shape the sub soil which must match the shape of the finished product.

A "shell" is left for the growing medium, drainage, and sod.

The drainage is carefully measured out for spacing and pitch.

The trenches have a 6" drain pipe and are covered with pea gravel.

The drainage on #13 is a herring bone pattern.

2" of pea gravel is spread evenly over the drainage pipe. This layer will suspend the water in the growing medium so the grass plants will have only just enough water to live.

The growing medium is 80% sand and 20% organic matter and soil. Eventhough this seems too sandy to grow grass in, the gravel underneath allows the water to stay in the growing medium.

The finished product will be cut at just over one-tenth of an inch, so fine grading is important.

Sod that has had all of the native soil washed off of it is carefully laid down. The plywood keeps the grass as smooth as possible.

After the green is sodded, the rest of the rough sod is laid to finish.

#13 Green just 6 months later.

This is #6 Green after just over 3 months.

Rebuilding A Signature Par 3 - #17

2010-01-05T08:43:00.000-08:00

#17 is a challenging, up hill, 200-yard, par-3. Although it is tucked in woods which makes it tough to maintain, the hole is in a beautiful location. Starting in 2005, the members at Crofton Country Club has invested over $100,000 to give this hole a makeover.

In November, 2005 the green was rebuilt to USGA specifications. It would now have a sand base to aid in drainage. Several trees were removed to the south side of the green's complex to increase sunlight.

New, A-4 bentgrass was used for the playing surface.

In August of 2006, the approach was no longer able to meet the new standards set by the green.

After the sod was removed, the soil was heavily aerated and amended to allow for maximum root development.

The approach continue to to receive frequent, seasonal aeration.

Without turf, large quantities are gypsum and calcium were applied. Twice a year, additional maintenance treatments are applied to keep the grasss healthy.

New drainage was installed in the wettest locations.

L-93 sod was laid on the new approach which is a vigorous variety of bentgrass.

The green's complex is looking fine in the summer of 2007, the tee box area was still an issue.

The Spring of 2008 saw another big change for #17. The undersized, misplaced tee boxes were removed.

New irrigation, cart paths, and landscaping were installed in the centered location.

By the early Summer of 2008 the new zoysia tee box was receiving frequent mowing and play was allowed on in June. The new 10k fan at the green was key in keeping the green cool and dry during the muggy summer.

In 2009, #17 received just a few touches. The Crofton Senior Men's Association (CSMGA) added their Memorial Garden and Bench at the tee box. New sand in the bunkers gave the hole a signature taste.